Aerobatmobile

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (66BAT) — Wed, 18 Mar 2009 08:07:04 GMT

I think the original rockers would still have held up, but I really like your concept MUCH better! Definately stronger, and should make body mounting and alignment MUCH simpler and hassle free as you pointed out.

And peace of mind is priceless!

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:07:40 GMT

Here are some pictures of the new rocker panels. I cut off the originals and added 4"x4" square tubes. Since cutting off the roof reduces the body's rigidity, I wanted to replace the original rocker panels with something stronger. The smooth sides of the tubes also help with the raising and lowering of the fiberglass body. An additional benefit (with the Hines body) is that, if properly spaced, these square tubes present a good reference point for aligning the lower portion...

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (nagrom) — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:56:53 GMT

I would avoid drilling through the body, your patch will end up printing through to your final paint. Stick to welding short beads and cooling the weld like Dan mentioned above.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (66BAT) — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:32:52 GMT

Although I haven't built a Bat, I am a welder and I would be leary of welding directly to a plate already attached to the body.

Granted that method would likely be the fastest and easiest way to align and attach the body I am guessing.

You could however, weld a "leg' to your flat plate that was 4 inches long or so ahead of time, then glass in the plate, then weld that leg to the car or to a mating leg. (If you go "leg to leg" I'd advise making...

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 23:58:27 GMT

Thankfully, we haven't seen any imprinting from any plates glassed into the body either. I have, however, seen permanent imprinting from using woven roving, even after three layers of 1 ounce and four layers of 1.5 ounce! It's crazy that the weave will show all the way through into the finished paint job.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 23:52:11 GMT

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (DonC) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 23:18:24 GMT

I'd be concerned with 'print through' ..ie the faint image of the plate through the exterior fiberglass after paint with the plate directly on the shell like that. Anytime I use plate I weld it to a tubular substructure first so its well above/below the surface of the bodyshell. I think the angle iron with bolts is a good idea although I haven't done it as of yet.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:51:47 GMT

That's good to hear that Mark hasn't seen any problems with delaminations. Morgan, I considered welding angle iron onto the plates before I installed them, but I wasn't sure where to put them where they would line up with the chassis. The weld heat will likely cook the epoxy just around the attach point. I'm thinking that I can minimize that by welding a little at a time. The epoxy area of the plate is much more than is needed. I am also considering installing the...

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:14:19 GMT

I haven't seen any problem on delamination at all, thankfully. We have had the pleasure of seeing two of our cars a year later each and we checked them inside and out and there were no problems.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (nagrom) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 10:44:11 GMT

Hello Dave, I have a concern about your method using the plates, will the heat from welding cause them to de-laminate ?

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (DonC) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 00:38:08 GMT

I'm still waiting on a few sets ordered from August 08.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 22:41:48 GMT

I ordered six sets of 15x7 Radirs in December, and they finally delivered the last of my order in August. :(

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (johnwb88) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:01:26 GMT

they have 15 x 7`s in stock (most of the time) 15 x 8 `s are always back ordered 10 weeks or more
(leave your name and we`ll call you) i used 15 x 7`s on 60 series tires and they look real good.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 20:46:26 GMT

Radir only produces our beloved wheels about twice a year, so be prepared to wait up to six months for delivery.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 20:21:28 GMT

Mark R. gave me some good starting points on mounting my body; he's got the experience! I used the epoxy technique because that's what I'm used to. However, there are areas of the body where it is impractical to use epoxy, so I will glass those areas.

Johnwb88, what's the hurry on the Radir wheels?

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 19:36:42 GMT

Interesting question, Chris. I think I can answer part of it. My experience is in aircraft composite construction. Carbon fiber/epoxy is the typical matrix for aircraft, but the basics should apply to fiberglass/polyester, which I think is what most of our bats are made from. Metal is attached to composites by either being mechanically fastened (rivets or threaded fasteners) or glued (usually epoxy). The secret to longevity is to keep the stresses low. If mechanical fasteners are...

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (Mark Racop) — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 21:42:30 GMT

Large steel plates to disperse the load, properly affixed to the car, good welds, and rubber at all contact points to the frame should keep problems from happening. Of course, we always have to remember that these are fiberglass shells, and we have to accept that fiberglass doesn't cooperate with the best laid plans of mice (and men).

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (CA WOODSIDE) — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:58:53 GMT

As I watched my initial build evolve and then the full blown resto', it occoured to me that there were many areas where raw steel would either loosely rest against or be directly glassed into the fiberglass body or steel rails that were pretty much just supporting the body at strategic points without being firmly affixed in place that I was able to discern.
I am wondering if this is a good time/area to discuss the appropriate locations for hard rubber mounts (if appropriate) to...

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (johnwb88) — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:33:04 GMT

hey dave,
nice start on the bat!
a little tip- order your wheels now if you want 8x15`s
welcome to the club.

Re: Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:02:16 GMT

Nice to meet you at the Barris event, George. The lift has worked out well so far. I live out in the sticks, and don't have a lot of guys I can tap for heavy lifting. I intend to do finish most of my structure before gluing the body down. Then I'll store the bat on the lift in the colder months.

I started out mounting the rear of the body on four posts welded over the rear axle....

Aerobatmobile

feeds@yuku.com (aerobat) — Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:36:50 GMT

Hello. I have been lurking on this board for a year or two, and thought it was time to join. Last October, I started a Doug Hines stage 2 kit (body and accessories only, no floor). I have been happily toiling away the last few months and will include updated pictures in future posts. I have included some pictures of the tear down of my 1978 Continental (if I am successful uploading them). I had never disassembled a car before. Turns out, the front end of the Lincoln was pretty...