they have 15 x 7`s in stock (most of the time) 15 x 8 `s are always back ordered 10 weeks or more
(leave your name and we`ll call you) i used 15 x 7`s on 60 series tires and they look real good.
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Aerobatmobile
| Author | Comment | ||
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 johnwb88 |
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Posts: 157 (03/11/09 9:01 PM) |
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Mark Racop |
Eight months | ||
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Posts: 2249 (03/11/09 10:41 PM) |
I ordered six sets of 15x7 Radirs in December, and they finally delivered the last of my order in August. :(
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DonC |
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Posts: 1149 (03/12/09 12:38 AM) |
I'm still waiting on a few sets ordered from August 08.
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nagrom |
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Posts: 500 (03/12/09 10:44 AM) |
Hello Dave, I have a concern about your method using the plates, will the heat from welding cause them to de-laminate ?
Morgan
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Mark Racop |
No problem on delamination | ||
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Posts: 2250 (03/12/09 8:14 PM) |
I haven't seen any problem on delamination at all, thankfully. We have had the pleasure of seeing two of our cars a year later each and we checked them
inside and out and there were no problems.
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aerobat |
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Posts: 10 (03/12/09 8:51 PM) |
That's good to hear that Mark hasn't seen any problems with delaminations. Morgan, I considered welding angle iron onto the plates before I
installed them, but I wasn't sure where to put them where they would line up with the chassis. The weld heat will likely cook the epoxy just around the
attach point. I'm thinking that I can minimize that by welding a little at a time. The epoxy area of the plate is much more than is needed. I am also
considering installing the angle iron with bolts rather than welding, and counterboring the outside of the fiberglass body so the bolt heads bear directly on
the steel plate. Than fill the hole and cover the bolt head. Has anybody done something like that? BTW, I sent the $ for your bat beam antenna earlier this
week.
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DonC |
bonding plate directly | ||
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Posts: 1151 (03/12/09 11:18 PM) |
I'd be concerned with 'print through' ..ie the faint image of the plate through the exterior fiberglass after paint with the plate directly on the
shell like that. Anytime I use plate I weld it to a tubular substructure first so its well above/below the surface of the bodyshell. I think the angle iron
with bolts is a good idea although I haven't done it as of yet.
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Mark Racop |
Imprint | ||
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Posts: 2251 (03/12/09 11:52 PM) |
Thankfully, we haven't seen any imprinting from any plates glassed into the body either. I have, however, seen permanent imprinting from using woven
roving, even after three layers of 1 ounce and four layers of 1.5 ounce! It's crazy that the weave will show all the way through into the finished paint
job.
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Mark Racop |
Imprint | ||
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Posts: 2252 (03/12/09 11:58 PM) |
Thankfully, we haven't seen any imprinting from any plates glassed into the body either. I have, however, seen permanent imprinting from using woven
roving, even after three layers of 1 ounce and four layers of 1.5 ounce! It's crazy that the weave will show all the way through into the finished paint
job.
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66BAT |
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Posts: 2921 (03/13/09 9:32 AM) |
Although I haven't built a Bat, I am a welder and I would be leary of welding directly to a plate already attached to the body.
Granted that method would likely be the fastest and easiest way to align and attach the body I am guessing. You could however, weld a "leg' to your flat plate that was 4 inches long or so ahead of time, then glass in the plate, then weld that leg to the car or to a mating leg. (If you go "leg to leg" I'd advise making one bigger than the other to go inside for additional strength at the weld, or if using angle iron overlap at the weld area) You can put a soaked rag with cold water at the plate to quench any heat that may travel back from the weld zone while welding. The only real hassle I could imagine from having legs pre welded to the plates would be any movement from the actual weld which might change the angle or location slightly (common with this type of weld) so when you do go to align to the chassis or mating leg they may not be 100% spot on anymore, unless you could pre clamp it together before welding to ensure location. Anyway, just my thoughts---I could welll be all wrong too! 
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nagrom |
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Posts: 502 (03/13/09 9:56 AM) |
I would avoid drilling through the body, your patch will end up printing through to your final paint. Stick to welding short beads and cooling the weld like
Dan mentioned above.
Morgan
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aerobat |
rocker panels | ||
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Posts: 11 (03/17/09 8:07 PM) |
Here are some pictures of the new rocker panels. I cut off the originals and added 4"x4" square tubes. Since cutting off the roof reduces the
body's rigidity, I wanted to replace the original rocker panels with something stronger. The smooth sides of the tubes also help with the raising and
lowering of the fiberglass body. An additional benefit (with the Hines body) is that, if properly spaced, these square tubes present a good reference point
for aligning the lower portion of the fiberglass body.
Since the original sheet metal of the floor pan is pretty thin, I added a steel doubler out of 1"x1/8" flat stock to attach the new rocker.
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66BAT |
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Posts: 2929 (03/18/09 8:07 AM) |
I think the original rockers would still have held up, but I really like your concept MUCH better! Definately stronger, and should make body mounting and
alignment MUCH simpler and hassle free as you pointed out.
And peace of mind is priceless! |
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- The 1966 TV Batmobile
- The 1966 TV Batmobile--Archive
- The 1955 Lincoln Futura
- Replica Batmobiles
- Your Replica Batmobile
- Tips On Building A Replica
- The Hot Wheels Bat-Vehicles
- The Hot Wheels Bat-Vehicles--Archive
- Other Scale Models & Toys
- Message Board FAQ's & More
- Items for Sale, Wanted or Trade
- Off Topic
