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Always wash and air dry all Styrene plastic or resin parts prior to painting. Luke warm water with no more than two drops of MILD dishwashing liquid works well. (I use palmolive wich is also a great flea bath for you pet owners)

Next...trim the mold seams and sprue nibs from each piece. I typically cut each part from the sprue with an exacto knife or razor blade, then clean the seams with an emery board. When you are satisfied with the look of each piece it's time to prime.

I personally like to seperate my parts into thier base colors. All the parts to be gloss black are put in one spot and so on. Small parts like the jet lever or batturn handle WILL blow away with a small blast of air from a paint can! Make a loop of masking tape and put the parts on it. You can actually "stand" each lever or item on its end on the tape and it will stand there upright as you spray it eliminating the need to turn parts over because they were sprayed laying down. This also allows you to paint it all at once, let it all dry at once and avoid fingerprints.

On the ones i've done, I used flat black primer on all the car parts, and white primer on the figures. In that scale, while a few brave souls will be able to airbrush them...the bulk of us will be hand painting ours. Either way white primer is the way to go. You can get a can of flat black and a can of flat white for less than two bucks at wal mart.

For me, Robin was the last part I did. I HATED PAINTING HIM! But he's a little easier every time. The trick is to use the right paint mixes. I start with the Cape and paint it Ceramcoat sunburst yellow. It's a very fine metallicy yellow that makes a good match for satin in that scale.
Next is the vest in Testors bright red enamel. Once the vest is dry, take a mechanical pencil, dip it in some Testors flat black and draw on Robin's belt. Next take a small brush, touch it to the flat black paint that's on the lid and wipe it once across a paper towel. Now just touch the tip of the brush to your thinner and retouch the tip briefly, to the paper towel. Then touch the tip to the center of the circle (Robin's 'R') and the paint will flow into and fill the circle. Once dry, go back to the water based Ceramcoat yellow and use the same wet method to fill the R with yellow.

The reason you use enamels under waterbased is simple. Thinner will remove enamel and water based paints. Water will only remove water based paints and that's only if thier fresh. SO...when you use the yellow to paint the R, you can wash off the excess with water without disturbing the surrounding paint. That way you can do it over and over till you're satisfied.

Finally, if you really botch a paint job, you can always strip it and go again. Pics of my 1/32nd Aurora are on the site here somewhere. I will be going offline for a while for medical reasons, but I hope to do a photo tutorial build before this one gets released using my test shot. Hope this helps, I know I can be a bit long winded.

...I will be doing a tutorial on building this particular kit. I am going to use one of my test shots (wich I assume to be quite close to what polar will release) to do a step by step build.

I am doing this for those folks on the board who really WANT to do it, but have a little trouble with painting the details. Since I acquired my first restorable batmobile in 1982, I have built, restored and re-done dozens of these kits for family and friends.

I have a step by step process that makes the painting process a no-brainer (my specialty ) for anyone to get a well detailed model painted, built and on thier shelf. You may ask yourself how I can be so arrogant? I'm not. I was forced to use this method because my painting skills sucked! Since it has worked well for me I think it might be helpfull to those who have never built a model or who always have trouble with those little details. So stay tuned!

Too bad you can't get royalties. Although i'm sure if you ask they'll pull the pic and replace it.