Paul's 1966 build in the works

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Amazzen	Re: Trunk replacement	#21	[-]
Posts: 528 (02/27/07 6:17 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Mark, Thanks for the continued guidance and comps. I think it makes tremendous sense to replace the Trunk compartment for a professional build. It's new and provides for more functionality specific to a "Batmobile" (and it's owner). The accessabilty benefits during the build process, as you say, makes too much sense. In my case, I have different objective.... I actually want to utilize as much of the donor car body as possible and fabricate as little as possible. Since I don't really need the trunk space, it's easier for me to trade off build accessability for the extra work it will take to build a new compartment. Thanks for sharing your "tricks of the trade" though, it still helps our understanding, even if we don't adopt. Paul
Vella66	Re: Trunk replacement	#22	[-]
Posts: 56 (03/01/07 11:06 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Nice job Paul, look like you have done a lot of work in such a short time. I like the hood hindge idea.did you know that someone else is building a Batmobile in the area. I seen it at petter's shop in Miltion (legendary) Ont.They are useing a corvett drive line and suspention.where in Ont, are you? Thanks for showing the pictures of your build. Vella66
CA WOODSIDE	Re: Trunk replacement	#23	[-]
Posts: 1303 (03/01/07 11:25 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I agree with all above. Different approach to a thorough build. You can't have enough of that on this board! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Amazzen	Re: Trunk replacement	#24	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/02/07 12:37 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks guys, It would be boring if every build was the same, but the fundamentals of good craftmanship never change. Vella66, if Legendary is building a Replica on a Corvette chasis for someone, I can assure you, it will be at an extraordinary price! You can bet it will be to "Woodruff" standards, including cost. I live about 45 minutes from Legendary Motorcar (how far away are you?) and have visited a couple of times. They do a great job with the TV show Dream Car Garage, but I have no first hand experience of the value they provide with their services. I can tell you that they house an incredible number of high dollar Muscle cars there. I believe Dan Woods (now hosting CHOP CUT REBUILD) helped Peter get into showbizness with a show he did here in the Toronto area years ago. As is my case, buiding a Batmobile is an extreme departure from Muscle Car Restoration, but it's still car crazy!
Vella66	Re: Trunk replacement	#25	[-]
Posts: 56 (03/02/07 3:08 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hi Paul from what I had seen they did a great job on the suspention and mounted the body to a custom frame to fit the corvett suspension with a nice floor. The body was realy ruff, at first I thought it was a bad knock off but then I seen the rear wheele wells and how they tip in. It must be a Bob Butts or a bad pull from a Butts body. It was removed from the shop in Dec 2006 to go another shop for body work. I am told hat the owner would like to have all the work done on the body and then pull a mould off of it and use it to make a new body. I live in TO but have some of my cars in George Town. Some time when you are not too busy would it be possible to see your build? Thanks from Vella66
Amazzen	Re: Meeting	#26	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/03/07 7:14 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hi Vella66, Perhaps, we could meet in Georgetown over a coffee first? Do you have a Replica??? Other cars??? Paul
Vella66	Re: Meeting	#27	[-]
Posts: 56 (03/03/07 8:16 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hay Paul I do not have a Bat replica YET. I must finish other projects first. As for cars, 64 T bird, 66 IMP (The Black Brick),and some other stuff. If you do any of the car cruises in the area or the car show at the International center you would have seen me. I will be at the car show next weekend at the Mississauga Classic Car Club display. Maybe I will see you there. When do you hope to get your project on the road? You seem to be putting the peddle down. Do you have a body shop in mind for prep and paint? That would be a hard choice to make. Good luck on the build and thanks for posting and keeping us informed on your project. Vella66
Amazzen	Re: March 3rd Progress to date	#28	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/03/07 9:20 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Body back on the frame... I'm trying to get a good fit on the front canopy, but it's going to take some more doing. John Brown, you're right about making a better Beacon/Roll Bar from scratch!!! (good call, the one that came with the kit doesn't fit well enough) Rear Deck Compartment... Access doors from Home Depot. I will rig closures with "Bat handles" later. Still need to pick up my 2 air vents (stainless steel cutlery holders) Compartment lower angle iron "bed frames" will hold MDF board storage boxes lined with carpet.... ROCKET TUBES.......cool enough without "launching" anything out of them! Thanks to Don Currie for the metal strap and bolt ("removable design") suggestion... I added a "snug" (3" cut hole) MDF board guide about 3 1/2" above the lower base to steady the tubes. Something like a test tube tray, but no rattle. Thanks Mark Racop for the dimensions and angles (yes, 7" center to center, 18"+20"+18" tall and not least of all, 70/110 degrees!) I think the original Lincoln fender skirts can be reworked into the front for that "factory look" They will need to be shortened at the front edge, trimmed a little and some braces welded into the front end framing but I like the finished product possibilities... Started on the Grille re-inforcement/bumper today. Framing will be epoxied and glassed into the nose and is bolted to the radiator support (for body-on, body-off purposes). More later, but here's a sneak peak... Left side inner view: Right side inner view: That's all for now... enjoy, Paul
Amazzen	Re: Meeting	#29	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/03/07 9:31 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Vella66 Email me your phone number and we'll make arrangements. I'm not much of a Show guy, but I do attend the odd event. Body and Paint are handled by a full-time body man and my cousin (awesome painter) at a repair shop we have at our Truck Terminal. Talk with you soon, Paul
Amazzen	Re: Front Bumper	#30	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/04/07 4:59 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Here's the front bumper/grille reinforcement.... It will be unbolted and put back into the nose when I sit the body back down. It will be epoxied in place and will unbolted so it will rise with the body next lift. I think the left fender skirt installed pretty well... How about the right front... Got the hood frame finished, ready to epoxy on next time we lower body... Before epoxy, I will sand fiberglass with 80Grit and wipe surface with acetone for good adhesion. Clean and epoxy primer steel as well. That's it for this weekend...... Paul
johnb88	Re: Front Bumper	#31	[-]
Posts: 269 (03/05/07 5:56 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hey Paul, send me the name of the epoxy that your using on your build. I have some things I would like to epoxy instead of glassing. Did you get your rims? jb-88
Amazzen	Re: Epoxy question	#32	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/05/07 6:16 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	John, I'm using 3M SMC/FRP panel to framing epoxy. I think there's a product code that I'll try and get that for you later on. The applicator gun is very expensive and the tubes are about $35 ea. I can tell you that I used one entire tube on each of the door framing and think I will need 2 more for the hood, trunk and bumper assembly. John, while I think the epoxy will hold well enough on it's own (prepared as directed), I would cover with at least a sheet or 2 of glass where possible. I'm guessing I'll need 6 more tubes after that for the entire body to framing and sides (I plan on having extras just in case, you only have 2 hours preset time). I ordered the Radir wheels last week at $289ea. with a 4" backspacing (not spacer), thanks for the info. I was hoping they made 16", but unfortunately not. I also called Deist for the bags and have yet to hear if they will sew the logo's left and right as you suggested. Paul
Amazzen	Re: Re Sheetmetal Work begun	#33	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/06/07 12:02 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Got my full time bodyman in on the build; he's a sheetmetal wizard. He's begining to appreciate the project! Starting to box up left door hinge pillar (A Pillar)... Upper pillar/cowl and lower rocker boxing... Under upper cowl on each side shows the re-inforcing tubing. This is unclosed right side.. Left rear C Pillar being boxed for internal strength and neatness... Bonus front end shot with fender skirts in place...
DonC	Re: Re Sheetmetal Work begun	#34	[-]
Posts: 1315 (03/06/07 12:25 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Great work Paul. and quick too...you gonna have this built by summer? Currieous about your front inner wheel arches..looks kind of tight for tire clearance, have you lowered the car yet? Cause once you cut the front coils (if you plan to do that) the drop is 4-6".
Amazzen	Re: Front Fender Skirts	#35	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/06/07 7:48 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hey Don, Thanks for the heads up, I'm looking for great feedback like this! (it's very "constructive"!) I've got the skirts as high up as they can go and the outer parts of the skirts will definitely need to be cut and reworked to the fenders. (flared out so to speak) I will keep the tire clearance in mind now that you've pointed this out (maybe I'll get the coils cut asap to determine). I figured that worse case, I could add air bags to raise when driving and lower for show? (If I do that, I will put them in all 4 corners). I think my lowering requirement was 3", but we'll see soon... Being a restoration guy, I gotta have that factory look in the engine bay. Ready by Summer? ... all I can say is, "it will be over, when it's over", It's one of the great perks of building for yourself - No deadline! Don, I loved your last pic on the GEN 3 thread, your fine workmanship and build process is impressive! Paul
jc	Impressive	#36	[-]
Posts: 37 (03/06/07 9:55 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Paul, I am very impressed with your frame structure. I think this style of build is a big step in moving these cars from kit car to car. I was wondering how the body would drop over the nose structure but making it bolt in will cure that problem. It is great to have a community like this to get feedback and ideas from. I am anxiously watching your build progress. Thanks to you and all for sharing Jeff
nagrom	Re: Re Sheetmetal Work begun	#37	[-]
Posts: 516 (03/06/07 5:29 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hey Paul, looking good, I like your A pillar, it reminds me of a car out here on the west coast. The inner fender idea is something that I have concidered but my inners are long gone, are they plastic? What are you using to bend your tubing.
Amazzen	Re: Impressive	#38	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/06/07 11:35 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	JC, Thanks for the compliments, but I haven't really invented anything new for the structure, I've simply modified the process a little. I have not glassed any tubing into the body before I fit it to the car, because my preference is to "glass the body to the tubing"! This Bob Johnson body was made with an vinylester resin versus polyester and has equal or better strength with 1/2 the thickness. Having said that, I would rather build a symetrical (more true) structure and bond the body to it versus fitting the tubing to an "untrue" body. So yes, the nose reinforcement is bolted on because I can't re & re the body (that's unique, but the structure is not too different than most good builders). Fender skirts are being retrofitted only because I like the look. Most build a more "Hot Rod" type look (I think that's personal preference as well). I'll take credit for taking a different approach, but the builders that have come before me get the credit for the evolution you see here. As I said when I started on this Board.... All the information to build a first class Batmobile is right here! You're absolutely right when you say... "Thanks to all for sharing"
Amazzen	Re: Re Sheetmetal Work begun	#39	[-]
Posts: 528 (03/07/07 12:16 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks Morgan, That West Coast kid must be pretty flattered then?! I bought a tubing bender a month ago from Woodward Fabricating, but have not picked it up yet. The tight bends (under canopies) have been bent using "kerf" cuts in the steel (similar to woodworking). Other than that, I use a heavy hammer and a large anvil/vise to cold bend the tubing. Fender skirts are indeed plastic. I will need to research how to get an effective bond to them so I can extend them to the fender lips (and bolt in). I would like them to be removable. FYI Mr Butts' video instructs us to use the front skirts in the rear. I guess that's acceptable too. There are so many ways to skin a Bat huh?
nagrom	Re: Re Sheetmetal Work begun	#40	[-]
Posts: 516 (03/07/07 1:36 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Paul, you might be able to weld your plastic skirts with a soldering iron or heat gun, I have had good results with many different plastics using both methods. Are the rockers you added parallel to each other or did you space them wider at the front? An all epoxy shell? or is it vinylester? I'm a little concerned about how low your rad is in relation to your engine, you could be in for some circulation problems.

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